Frequently asked questions

We are often asked the same questions by customers, so we thought it would be useful to summarise below the most frequently asked questions. If you cannot see the answers you need here, please don't hesitate to give us a call on 0115 9400268 or email us at ask@anthonyandpykett.co.uk

Faq 1: Table Room Size Guide

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Faq 2: Table Dimensions

*with rise and fall option these dimensions will be as per normal snooker table

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Faq 3: Table Weights

Whilst it is true that the all up weight of a full size table can exceed 1.5 tons, this weight is well spread over a large area, and on eight legs. In addition timber floors act as a raft so spreading the load even further. The result of this is that any normal floor can carry the weight of a table without problems. It follows that smaller tables are even less of a problem. However, if you are building a snooker room from new you will need to comply with your local building regulations. If you need further advice, just ask.

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Faq 4: Ball Cleaning

I mean snooker balls, of course! Do not use detergents and definitely not a dishwasher, as these will fade the colours. I find car T-Cut is about the best, followed by a good wax polish. However, take care and try one ball first, and leave overnight, because there are several different types of materials used, so it is best to be on the safe side.

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Faq 5: The care of tables

The Nap on the bed-cloth of a table runs from the baulk end to the spot end. On the cushions the direction of the nap varies according to the make of table. The cloth is stretched tightly over the table when first fitted, but, but its natural characteristics allow it to stretch and in time it will become slack. When this happens it requires re-stretching by a skilled table fitter.
  Regular Brushing and Ironing - in the direction of the nap - are essential to the maintenance of the table's efficiency. First, brush to remove all dirt, using only the tip of the brush at the ends of the table. Second, go over the table again wth a duster wrapped around the brush. Third, iron with a specialist iron which is at once quite clean and not too hot. Test the iron for heat on a sheet of newspaper. If there is the slightest scorching of the paper, allow the iron to cool before using. A too-hot iron dries the wool fibres, makes them brittle and the cloth more susceptible to wear. Iron the bedcloth only; NEVER THE CUSHIONS.
  When a new cloth has been in use a short time small spots will appear. These are often suspected as "moth marks". In fact, they are "cue stabs", caused by players allowing their cues to come into contact with the cloth after striking the ball; an especially common fault - often unsuspected - when the ball is stuck below mid-centre. When the cue tip is thus brought into sharp contact with the cloth, tightly stretched on its unyielding slate bed, a little of the nap is removed and the alleged "moth mark" results. These marks will gradually become less noticeable as the cloth ages. This type of damage is caused all the more frequently if the edges of tips or ferrules are allowed to become sharp or rough, or if the tips do not exactly fit the que. The dropping of balls, or rough placing of rests and snooker trays, can cause similar blemishes; as also can the tossing of coins, which should be absolutely forbidden.
  Occasionally a newly-covered table will be seen to have a line running across it, either lighter or darker than the rest of the cloth. This is a press or fold mark, indicating where the cloth was folded. With regular brushing and ironing this will gradually become less noticeable and will ultimately disappear.
  Cushions require no other maintenance than regular brushing - again, with the run of the nap.

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Faq 6: A word of warning about cushion speed

For reasons too technical to explain here, it should be stressed that no manufacturer can guarantee that a new set of cushions will give a specified degree of speed. Nor is it necessary for players to concern themselves with the number of lengths a ball will run "when hit with maximum force". To judge a table by this test is like trying to measure the "pick-up" of a cricket bat or the "balance" of a racket by the use of scales and footrule. The only speed essential to good play is that there should be sufficient resilience in the cushions for a cue ball to travel easily round the table when a normal stroke is played.

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